Jun 18 2019
I am drafting a classic, set in sleeve to fit to the armhole of my bodice block (see previous post), however, there are three basic types of sleeves, set in, kimono, and raglan. The classic sleeve has a high sleeve cap which has a more tailored appearance but restricts movement.
The sleeve cap is the curved top section of the sleeve from the front underarm to the back underarm. The sleeve cap height is that area of the sleeve from the biceps or underarm line to the top of the sleeve cap. Cap height for the classic sleeve should be about 12.5 cm -15 cm.
To establish the length of the armhole and notch points, I laid the front and back bodice together at the shoulder seam (matching seam lines) and pinned a piece of cord along the seam line. I marked the front single notch, back double notch and shoulder seam join on the cord in blue pen.
On scraps of paper I traced the front and back armhole shape up to the notches.
I measured the fullest part of my upper arm including ease and marked this as a horizontal line across the pattern paper, this is the biceps line. I drew the grain line at a right angle at the mid point. I then measured my forearm, including ease, the length of the sleeve, from the bottom of the armpit to the finished hem and my wrist. I used all these measurements to plot the lower sleeve shape. I slipped the armhole template under the paper to trace the sleeve cap shape up to the notches.
I pinned the cord in place matching up the notch points and shaped the cord into a curve and drew a line just inside it.
Additional cap ease of around 3.75 cm - 5 cm is needed to go over ball of the arm since the sleeve cap is high and bicep or underarm line is narrower. Personally, the less ease the better to make sewing the sleeve into the armhole less tricky. I removed the cord and drew a second line above the curve to add minimum ease, slightly more is needed at the back.
This is what the sleeves looks like sewn into the bodice I made in the previous post, I now just need to extend it into a top.