Mar 07 2019
I have been meaning to re-visit my bodice block for a while now as the one I always use is a standard size which always needs a bit of tweaking when I use it to make a pattern…..and lets face it, who is a standard size?
It is virtually impossible to fit a bodice on yourself so I gate-crashed our bodice fitting workshop to get some expert fitting from Jeanette.
Jeanette started the workshop by getting us all to take our measurements correctly to establish a starting size, then most of the class required a full bust adjustment as the standard patterns only go up to a mere C-cup. Being a B-cup, I was able to start checking my front and back lengths against the starting block and adjusting before cutting out in calico.
On my first fitting, I was surprised to see how much I needed to take out of the back width. This was a revelation in itself, as I would usually use an additional dart from the shoulder or princess style seam to remove the excess. I wanted to take an equal width out at the centre back seam, however, this meant it was a bit tight at the back waist so I would need to decrease the width of the back darts a fraction and I would still have a gaping back neckline so I needed to lift the shoulder seam at the neck.
The front was a must better fit across the width, however, the bust and
waist darts needed repositioning to end at the new points marked on the
The front neck was also gaping so I needed to lift the shoulder seam
at the neck and take some excess out of the neckline.
These are the adjustments I made to the back block:
-Remove width at the centre back seam
-Decrease dart width
-Reduce shoulder height at neck
These are the adjustments I made to the front block:
-Lower and shorten bust dart
-Shorten waist dart
-Reduce shoulder height at neck (more on front than back)
-Fold out excess in neckline and smooth away to nothing
Eager to test my new bodice out, I took it home and cut it out in some
fabric from my stash. It will always look different in different fabrics
but I am
pretty pleased with the fit, I may just need to have another look at
the bust dart position.
Most customers come back to our fit and flare workshop to use their bodice and add a gathered skirt to it, but I think I am going to make it into a longer top after I have tackled the sleeve!