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Ministry of Craft Blog

    Friday, February 16, 2018

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    MINISTRY MAKES A BODICE - PART ONE

     

    MINISTRY MAKES A BODICE - PART ONE

    I have been meaning to re-visit my bodice block for a while now as the one I always use is a standard size which always needs a bit of tweaking when I use it to make a pattern…..and lets face it, who is a standard size?

    It is virtually impossible to fit a bodice on yourself so I gate-crashed our bodice fitting workshop to get some expert fitting from Jeanette.

    Jeanette started the workshop by getting us all to take our measurements correctly to establish a starting size, then most of the class required a full bust adjustment as the standard patterns only go up to a mere C-cup. Being a B-cup, I was able to start checking my front and back lengths against the starting block and adjusting before cutting out in calico.

    On my first fitting, I was surprised to see how much I needed to take out of the back width. This was a revelation in itself, as I would usually use an additional dart from the shoulder or princess style seam to remove the excess. I wanted to take an equal width out at the centre back seam, however, this meant it was a bit tight at the back waist so I would need to decrease the width of the back darts a fraction and I would still have a gaping back neckline so I needed to lift the shoulder seam at the neck.


    The front was a must better fit across the width, however, the bust and waist darts needed repositioning to end at the new points marked on the calico. The front neck was also gaping so I needed to lift the shoulder seam at the neck and take some excess out of the neckline.


    These are the adjustments I made to the back block:

    -Remove width at the centre back seam

    -Decrease dart width

    -Reduce shoulder height at neck


    These are the adjustments I made to the front block:

    -Lower and shorten bust dart

    -Shorten waist dart

    -Reduce shoulder height at neck (more on front than back)

    -Fold out excess in neckline and smooth away to nothing


    Eager to test my new bodice out, I took it home and cut it out in some fabric from my stash. It will always look different in different fabrics but I am pretty pleased with the fit, I may just need to have another look at the bust dart position.


     

    Most customers come back to our fit and flare workshop to use their bodice and add a gathered skirt to it, but I think I am going to make it into a longer top after I have tackled the sleeve!



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