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Ministry of Craft Blog

    Wednesday, June 12, 2019

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    How to Sew a Double Welt Pocket

     

    How to Sew a Double Welt Pocket

    A double welt pocket is also sometimes called a jetted pocket or bound pocket and there are a few different ways of making one. After trying a few, I found the following one gave the best results. Bound buttonholes are made in the same way, just shorter in length.

     

    Cutting 

    These measurements create one pocket with a standard 13cm wide opening. If you’re sewing two pockets, cut each of the following pieces twice. The pieces are cut to be 17cm wide, so you’ll be working with a 2cm allowance on either side of the pocket opening.

    2 x Welts – 3.5cm wide x 17cm long. If you want your welts to match your garment, use your garment fabric instead of a contrasting fabric like I did here.

    2 x Fusible interfacing for welts – 3.5cm wide x 17cm long. This will be fused to the welt pieces.

    1 x Fusible interfacing for garment – 7cm wide x 17cm long. This will be fused to the wrong side of the garment at the pocket opening to stabilise it.

    1 x Pocket lining – 12cm wide x 26cm long (or other desired length). Note that the pocket lining will be folded back on itself to create the pocket bag, so it should be double the desired depth of your pocket.

     

    Preparation

    Fuse the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the welt fabric and to the back of the garment. Using a removable marker, mark the pocket opening 13cm long on the right side of the garment.

     

     

    Mark a line 2cm in from each short end on each welt on the wrong side.


     

    Sewing 

    Put the right side of one of the welts to the right side of the garment centred on the marked line.


    Stitch in place using a 1cm seam allowance starting and ending at the marked lines at either end of the welt.


    Repeat for the other welt.


    Please note it is very important to start and end at exactly the same points on both.


    Move the seam allowances out of the way and cut along the line marked on the garment, stopping about 1cm short at each end.


    Then cut diagonally to the last point you stitched on all four corners.


    Turn the welt inside out.


    Press the seams open.


    Flip the welt over so the edge meets up with the seam allowance.


     

    Press welt in place.

     


     

    Tuck the duck tails on the inside and tack them in place at the sides, you don’t need to sew too close.

     


    Now add the pocket bag starting by sewing one of the short ends of the pocket bag to the bottom seam on the welt.


    Then sew the other short end to the top seam on the welt. And sew the pocket bag together by sewing down the sides of the pocket bag using a 1cm seam allowance.


    Give it a final press.

     


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