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Ministry of Craft Blog

    Friday, July 13, 2018

    (1) comments

    How to make side splits at trouser hem

     

    How to make side splits at trouser hem

    On trousers with narrow hems, a side split works well and it is easy to adjust an existing trouser pattern. A hem allowance the length of the required split plus 1.5cm needs to be added where the seamlines mirror those of the pant leg, allowing the hem allowance to fit properly inside the pant leg when it is turned up. 

    I adjusted my trouser block as follows, I wanted to reduce the length to a cropped style so started by marking the new length on the pattern.

     

    On a separate piece of paper I drew 2 parallel lines apart, the length of the split plus 1.5cm.

     

    I traced the shape of the trousers at the hem from the cropped line onto the area between the parallel lines.

    I cut these out and added them to the new hem line so the turning mirrored the shape of the trouser leg

     

    Along the outside seams, I marked points 1.5cm above the hemline and 1.5cm below the hem line on both the front and back pattern pieces.


     

    Sew the outer leg seam, backstitching at the notches and tacking with a long stitch length between the guide marks.


     

    Finish the raw edges and press the outer leg seam open and rip the tacking stitches between the backstitching at the notches.


    With the trouser leg inside out, fold up the hem along the hemline, bringing the notches marks together and stitch along the crease from the hemline to the notches meeting the backstitching in the side seam.

     


    Use a point turner to turn the corners of the slit.

     

     

    Turn the pant leg right side out, press and stitch hem in place using your preferred method.

     

     

     


     

     

     

     


    1 comments

    rae story commented on 14-Jul-2018 09:24 AM
    This is really useful - I never understood how to do these spits. Good for neat cuffs on jackets too. I wonder if it is a similar method to put side splits on a skirt... will have to experiment. Thanks.

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