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Ministry of Craft Blog

    Saturday, March 30, 2019

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    Every time I opened a new book or pattern I would be given a slightly different variation on how to insert a fly and I would always get mixed results. A common issue was the stitching under the fly showing slightly as the fly front did not quite cover them. I noticed shop bought trousers never had this problem as the zip was set further under the fly so I decided to opt for this method and I have never looked back!

    Prepare your fly and under lap by fusing your interfacing to the wrong side of each piece. Overlock or zigzag stitch around the curved edge of the fly and fold the under lap in half with wrong sides together and overlock or zigzag stitch around the side and bottom edges (I skipped this stage for the sample).


    Place right side of fly on right side of right front edge and stitch from top to notch/start of crotch seam.

    Press fly away from garment and under stitch.

    Open zip and place face down along the edge of the right side of the left front and stitch in place sewing half the seam allowance away from the edge. Stop sewing when you get to the notch (apologies for replacement photos, original ones disappeared).


    Place the underlap over the zip and stitch in place, following the same stitching line and stopping at the notch.

    Fold the underlap over and under stitch all the layers catching the seam allowance to the pants.

    Sew centre crotch seam right sides together starting at the notch, move all the bulk away.

    Line the centre front of the pants up and pin closed as if the zip was fastened up.

    Flip over and pin the zip to the fly but not the front of the garment.

    Stitch zip to the fly.

    Mark the stitching line on the front using a fly template.

    Top stitch to facing making sure the under flap is moved out of the way, stop at centre front seam.

    No stitching peeping out as the zip is staggered under the fly!





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