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Ministry of Craft Blog

    Friday, June 29, 2018

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    How to draft and sew a fly-front zip

     

    How to draft and sew a fly-front zip

    If you don't have a trouser pattern designed for a fly-front zipper, adding one to a pattern that has not been designed for one is easy, to do so, follow the steps below.

    1 - Mark the stitching line on the trouser pattern from the waist to the front crotch seam. Stop 1cm from the edge of the front crotch seam and mark with a circle.

    2. Trace the front trouser pattern onto a piece of paper to make the fly pattern piece.

    3 - Trace the stitching line and circle. Add a 1cm seam allowance around the stitching line and cut out.

    4. Trace around the fly pattern piece to make the underlap pattern piece. Draw a vertical line 1cm in from the curved edge.

    5. Fold the paper in half lengthwise along the marked line.

    6 - While folded, cut out the pattern piece along the lines to create the underlap pattern piece.


    How to Sew.

    Stitch front crotch seam to circle (I didn't do in the below to show stages in flat format).

    Apply interfacing to wrong side of fly and finish the curved edge.


    Stitch fly to right front edge from waist to circle.


    Stitch right side of zip face down on tab with left side of zip tape extending 6mm over over fly seam. 


    Turn fly to inside and pin in place.


    Press under 1cm on left front and pin open left zip tape close to the teeth.


    Fold underlap in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together and finish raw edges together.


    Stitch left side of zip in place with underlap in place.


    Stitch fly in place from right side along stitching line, pin underlap out of the way so it does not get caught in.



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